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Jeffrey Ozawa

Gorumando’s Gift Guide

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Christmas is only a few days away! In case you’re in the market for a few last-minute goodies, check out this food-centric gift guide by Gorumando. You can buy most of these exotic finds at your local specialty grocery store. Last week we shared a selection of our favorite gifts of cookware and cutlery, but [...]

Warm Up With Neapolitan Ragù

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Any person curious about the culinary impact of Italian immigration in America need only go to an ordinary supermarket and walk the aisles. Past the little “ethnic” sections featuring a few yards of Mexican and Pan-Asian ingredients, one will arrive at a long stretch of dried pastas, canned tomatoes, olive oils and wine vinegars. The [...]

Making Time and Tempura

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The farm stand closed on Sunday and I sliced up the last of it to be fried as tempura, a fitting eulogy for the season. I pulled the stainless bowl out of the freezer and mixed a light batter, keeping it cold with ice water. The oil was heating on the stove and I waited [...]

Tacos de Pollo

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The city of Chicago has become famous for its upscale Mexican restaurants, but I will remember it for its humble taquerias spread throughout the city, little neighborhood joints each with their own specialties. In its time, one of my favorite spots was El Norte, a little Mexican diner on the corner where for weeks I lived on burritos [...]

Rainy Day Recipe: Curry

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The chilly evenings of early autumn will always remind me of the anxiety I had as a child of going back to school. It meant giving up the beach and those endless days with nothing to do but swim and read. Our sun-tanned teacher would go around asking us about our vacations and I would [...]

Gazpacho al-Andalus

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For the first week in Chicago we were treading lightly. Promises were made to have the gas stove working in our apartment within a week although the landlord said it probably worked already. Fearing a Looney Tunes style explosion, and lacking any training in the practical sciences, I stayed clear of the oven altogether. With [...]

Hot Day, Cold Ramen

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We were rolling down Hudson St, just past the tunnel, Julio Iglesias sang La Mer and I think my feet were hanging out of the window. It was something like a welcome back to New York, the city jubilant in its midsummer grime and garbage smell, on one of those hot and sweaty nights for which people [...]

What to Do With Okra

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For a mere vegetable, okra has traveled well, out of western Africa to the far corners of the world. In the American South we know it mostly deep-fried or thrown into stews like gumbo, a recipe that owes a debt to the okra soup of Nigeria. Indians treat it similarly, as the centerpiece of their [...]

The Japanese Breakfast

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When I was growing up, every commercial for cereal ended with the caveat that was “part” of a complete breakfast, a tacit admission that puffed corn and fructose don’t accomplish much. Inevitably, the next shot was a table crammed with the supplemental foods needed to finish the job: glasses of juice, milk, toast, jam, etc. [...]

Dunderi: Homemade Pasta Demystified

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I bought a sack of 00 flour years ago, with the intention to make homemade pasta “one of these days.” It took the BBC series Two Greedy Italians, which I watched nonstop this week, to finally bring those plans into action. Gennaro Contaldo, the show’s enthusiastic co-presenter, threw together what he called dunderi, little dumplings of ricotta, [...]